Above the Mists| Border |Trekking Peaks in Sikkim| Special Rules | Major Peaks| Errors on Spines 

The Indian State and former Himalayan Kingdom of Sikkim, is arguably one of the most varied, beautiful, and compact regions of the Himalayas. On India’s northeast border, and nestling between Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan, thumb-shaped Sikkim’s highest point is the summit of Kanchenjunga (8598m) on its western border with Nepal. This is around only 70km from Sikkim’s eastern border with Tibet and Bhutan. Sikkim’s lowest point is in the south and less than 300m above sea level, where the Tista River leaves the steep tropical forests for the plains of West Bengal (a region once legendary for
malaria). Meanwhile, just over 100km to the north drivable roads climb to more than 5000m to reach the arid Tibetan plateau. The culture and people of Sikkim are also diverse and extremely friendly. There can be few places in the world with such diversity in altitude, climate, flora and fauna in such a relatively small and accessible area.

In terms of its interest for climbing, Sikkim is a paradoxical paradise. My preconceptions about access to peaks and costs were proved completely wrong when I first visited in October 2004 - everything was much more accessible and easy to arrange than I had previously understood. This is why Julie-Ann Clyma and I have returned for three subsequent climbing trips (and are currently planning another). In terms of climbing objectives, there are countless rock walls, winter icefalls in high forests and mountain valleys, many interesting unclimbed 5-6000m+ peaks, a clutch of virgin 7000m peaks, and the world’s longest un-climbed high-altitude ridge. A very welcome addition is new regulations for ‘Alpine Peaks’, which means small teams can easily obtain permission and at modest cost. We had an input into this improvement of access for climbing, which is welcome evidence of a State Government that is open-minded and committed to sustainable development in
mountain regions.

The climbing paradox is that despite a long history of mountain exploration, Sikkim does not have a reliable up to date record of first ascents. Climbs have been made but not clearly recorded, some ascents have been claimed but may not have been climbed, and some summits have been climbed but not recorded at all. I have even had the strange experience of reading in a Sikkim newspaper about a ‘first’ ascent of a summit that I had previously climbed myself (and that as a third ascent). Given this unusual and somewhat confusing background (and all that is recorded in the Himalayan Journal and elsewhere) this article is not an attempt to get the historical record clear and correct, but is a highlight of selected achievements and some of the excellent climbing opportunities that exist in Sikkim.

The original inhabitants of Sikkim were the Lepchas, who were food gathering people speaking a language of uncertain origin. They worshipped the spirits of nature and mountain summits, and had an oral history. During the fifteenth century the first major migration of Tibetan and Bhutanese (Bhutia) people occurred. Then, towards the end of the nineteenth century,
major migration from Nepal occurred leading to increased cultivation. The relatively easy to cross mountain passes between Sikkim and Tibet gave it great strategic significance during the period of British India, and in 1817 Sikkim became a protectorate of Britain, a responsibility assumed by India in 1947. During the period of the Sino-Indian border conflicts and the era of the ‘Cold War’, the passes closed and became major points of tension between India and China. Hence, both sides of the border became heavily militarised. In 1975 Sikkim became the 22nd State of India (the smallest except for Goa). Today, Sikkim is an integrated multicultural society, and India and China have given mutual recognition regarding the status of Sikkim and Tibet. The heavy military presence remains on the border; however, the Natu La, one of the main mountain passes between Sikkim and Tibet, is now open for limited local trade and may soon open for tourism.

Back in the mist

In two remarkable journeys in 1848 and 1849 the legendary naturalist Sir Joseph Hooker climbed several 5000m peaks, attempted some 6000m peaks, and almost completed a circuit of Kanchenjunga. John Claude White, the Political Officer to Sikkim and later Bhutan (1887-1908), travelled widely. White was a very able administrator and a farsighted conservationist. He introduced protected status to vast areas of Himalaya forest, and created a remarkable personal collection of photographs of his travels on the northeast frontier and in Tibet. In 1899 Douglas Freshfield’s famous expedition around Kanchenjunga included Vittorio and Erminio Sella, who also took some fine photographs, including the striking peak of Siniolcho, once vaunted as the most beautiful mountain in the world.

The strategically important high passes of Sikkim were the eastern gateway to the Tibetan plateau, and this was the route taken by Francis Younghusband on the historic ‘Lhasa Mission’ of 1904, and hence the route taken by all the early expeditions to the north side of Everest.

The most prolific early climber was Dr Alexander Kellas, who made several visits to Sikkim in the period 1907-21. He climbed many peaks, mostly with local companions, and in 1910 made ten ascents including Chomoyummo (6829m) and Pauhunri (7128m). Kellas wrote several important papers on the effects of altitude, but sadly, he wrote very little about his extensive climbing experiences. Kellas wondered if Everest could be climbed without supplementary oxygen, and because of his experience and knowledge, he was selected for the first Everest expedition in 1921. Tragically, after crossing from Sikkim to the Tibetan plateau he became seriously unwell and died of a heart attack at Kampa Dzong.

Marco Pallis, Freddy Spencer Chapman, Paul Bauer, G. O. Dyrenfurth, C.R. Cook, John Hunt, and Eric Shipton were all among the climbers of what could be called the ‘golden age’ of mountain exploration in Sikkim. This period started with Hooker in 1848 and was arguably at its zenith on the peaks around the Zemu glacier in the 1930’s. Continuing the lightweight
alpine-style approach that had been established, in 1936 Bauer, Adi Göttner, Karl Wien and Günther Hep made the first ascent of Siniolchu (6887m) and Simvo (6812m). The ‘golden age’ perhaps ended in 1939 with the ascents of Tent Peak (7365m) and Nepal Peak (7180m) by the Swiss-German party of E. Grob, H. Paidar and L. Schmaderer. When Himalayan mountaineering resumed after the interruption of the 2nd World War the spotlight was on a different style of climbing and the 8000m peaks. In the case of Kanchenjunga, the focus was on the Nepal side of the mountain.

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Above the mists

Unlike some of the world’s highest mountains, Kanchenjunga is easily visible from the lowlands and populated areas. It is an amazing sight from hill towns like Pelling and Darjeeling. Given its dominant size and shape, and magnificent appearance in early morning and evening light, it is hardly surprising that it has long been an object of worship and an inspiration to climbers. The remarkable first ascent in 1955 was from the Nepal side of the mountain. However, the Sikkim side had seen two determined attempts on the northeast spur in 1929 and ’31 by strong groups led by Paul Bauer. This dangerous and difficult route was eventually completed in 1977 by an Indian Army expedition led by the redoubtable Col Narinder (‘Bull’) Kumar, which was the second expedition to succeed in climbing Kanchenjunga.

In 1991 the State Government of Sikkim classified the main, south and west summits of Kanchenjunga as sacred, and banned the “scaling of the sacred peaks”. This has been taken to mean that all climbing attempts on the Sikkim side of Kanchenjunga are prohibited. However, it may be possible to obtain permission from the Sikkim authorities to climb Kanchenjunga if the sacred peak restriction is respected, and the summits remained un-trodden. If so, this would open up the possibility of a traverse of Kanchenjunga’s formidable unclimbed east-southeast ridge, which includes Zemu Peak (7780m). This is, without doubt, one of the major high-altitude mountaineering challenges.

In the West

South along the border from Kanchenjunga is Talung (7349m) and at least three 7000m summits in the Kabru group. In 1883 William Woodman Graham claimed an ascent of Kabru, but later this was dismissed and it was thought he was on some other mountain. Kabru North (7338m) was climbed in 1935 (C.R. Cooke and G. Schoberth) and Talung from its Nepal side in 1964 (F. Lindner and T Nindra). Kabru Dome (6600m) and the North and South summits of Kabru are classified as sacred. However, this has not prevented recent ascents by Indian and foreign groups (although it is not clear if the groups concerned had the permission of the authorities in Sikkim).

Further south again is Rathong (6679m) and Koktang (6147m) which offer interesting opportunities for alpine-style first ascents (and which we explored in autumn 2006 and climbed some adjacent 5000m summits). According to the Alpine Club’s on-line Himalayan Index, Koktang has been climbed twice (via the SW face in 1982 and via the NE face and N ridge in 1991), and Ratong has had two ascents (in 1964 and 1987 via the West Ratong glacier and icefall). The steep mixed south face of Rathong looks interesting, but has some serac hazards, and the southeast ridge is a technical challenge we tried, but we ran out of weather and time. Koktang has a long corniced summit ridge and, according to the great chronicler of Himalayan ascents Harish Kapadia, “the true high point, lying at the northernmost end, remains to be climbed.” Having climbed quite a bit of new ground, we made some progress on the northwest-north ridge of Koktang, but deep cold snow and unstable cornices stopped us. This route would probably be a more reasonable undertaking in the pre-monsoon spring period.

Near the snout of the Rathong glacier is the mountain base camp for the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in Darjeeling. Groups from the HMI Darjeeling train on the glaciers and peaks thereabouts, including the technical Frey Peak (5830m) which has had numerous ascents with the aid of fixed ropes. This is one of the peaks designated by the Government of Sikkim as an Alpine Peak. In 2004 two Spanish climbers (Alain Anders and Garo Azuke) were active in this area and climbed two technical routes on peaks they referred to as Tieng Kg (c 6000m) and Phori (5837) (see p385, 2004 AAJ, Vol 46).

Running parallel and to the east of the above peaks is the route of Sikkim’s most popular trek: a 5-day journey from the historic village of Yuksom to the Gocha La (Heaven’s Gate). As you ascend, you get excellent views of Kanchenjunga, and to your east a group of fine looking alpine-scale peaks. The first of real note is the technical looking Narsing (5825m) which is
another sacred peak. However, just north of this is Lama Lamani (c5700m), Jopuno (5936m) and Tinchenkang (6010m); the latter two being Alpine Peaks, for which it is easy to obtain permission. In spring 2005 with Sagar Rai and Kunzang Bhutia (friends in the Sikkim Amateur Mountaineering Association) we made the first ascent of Lama Lamani, then made the 3rd
ascent (and first alpine-style ascent) of Tinchenkang. Jopuno has apparently just had its 2nd ascent (Sam Gardner and team, spring 2008). These peaks offer good medium grade alpine ascents, and are destined to become classic climbs of the Eastern Himalaya.

Further north again is the dramatic peak of Pandim (6691m), which attracted the attention of the early explorers, and more recently has had some confusingly reported attempts. Pandim has a superb looking technical west ridge, but is another sacred summit. It is actually a group of summits, so perhaps in the future it may be possible to climb one of the lower peaks.

In West Sikkim, as in other areas in Sikkim, Indian mountaineers have been very active. Members of the Himalayan Club, instructors from the mountaineering institutes, and military groups have all made important climbs. Some ascents have been accurately documented in the Himalayan Journal and elsewhere, others less well recorded, and some not recorded for security reasons. If Sikkim ever has a definitive guidebook of climbs, it will have been the outcome of some very diligent research.

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Along the border, North and East

North of Kanchenjunga is Jongsang (7459m) (first ascent by its north ridge in 1930 by G. O. Dyrenfurth’s international expedition to Kanchenjunga), which is at the junction of the borders between Nepal, Tibet and Sikkim. The Sikkim-Tibet border follows the watershed over high peaks and passes to Pauhunri (7125m) (first ascent in 1910 by Kellas) in Sikkim’s northeast corner. Just south of Pauhunri are two virgin 7000m summits, then a ridge of un-named 6000m summits. Further south again, the peaks become lower and lead to the historic passes of Natu La (between Gangtok and Yatung in Tibet)
and Jelep La (between Kalimpong and Yatung).

Permission to access the peaks and passes along the Sikkim-Tibet border has been extremely limited since the start of the Sino-Indian border conflict of 1962. However, you can pick almost any mountain along the Sikkim-Tibet border and find an interesting climbing objective. In September 2004, a strong team organised by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) in New Delhi attempted the border peak of Chomoyummo (6829m). The leader was the highly respected and hugely experienced Dr P. M. Das, a vice president of the IMF. The attempt ended in tragedy when Das and four others were killed
in an avalanche.

At some stage no doubt, access to the peaks on the Sikkim-Tibet border will become easier, which could launch a new ‘golden age’ of first ascents and new routes in this part of the Himalayas. Meanwhile, just away from the border is a ring of peaks that are easier to access, and offer very interesting climbing potential from the valleys of Lachung and Lachen.

During the 2nd World War British climbers were able to take leave in the region of Lachung and Lachen, and members of the Himalayan Club including Trevor Braham explored the area. It is a fascinating journey up from the steep forested slopes of the Lachung valley, to reach open plains typical of the Tibetan plateau around Yume Samdong, and then cross the Sebu La down into the open part of the Lachen valley, to then descend back south to steep valleys and forests. Such was the interest in making this journey that the Himalayan Club built huts either side of the Sebu La (both of which are now in ruins).

Gurudongmar and the other peaks in the Kangchengo group have steep southern aspects; they are approached more easily from the north and have shorter ascents. While returning from the 1936 Everest expedition by crossing the Naku La, Shipton, Warren, Kempson and Wigram made the first ascent of Gurudongmar. However, having read their account, it seems more likely that the summit they reached was Gurudongmar West (6630m), which would make the first ascent of the main peak in 1980 (Assam Rifles led by Norbu Sherpa).

Chombu is described by Doug Scott as “the Matterhorn or the Shivling–like peak of Sikkim”. It was explored in the 1940’s and 50’s by members of the Himalayan Club. Apparently, there was an attempt in 1961, but according to Harish Kapadia, “A definite ascent of this peak is yet to be established.”

A large part of Scott’s article ‘Exploration and Climbs in Northeast Sikkim’ (p53, Himalayan Journal, vol 53 1997) is about the difficulty, high cost, and uncertainty connected to obtaining permission for the peaks. The team members were enterprising in their explorations, in what was then a high security area, but somewhat thwarted by bad weather and heavy snow on their
efforts to climb Gurudongmar and Chombu. As an indication of how things have changed since 1996, the expedition’s base camp at Yume Samgong (4624m) is now a very popular day trip by jeep from Lachung. While on a trip in October 2007, in one day during a public holiday, 93 tourist jeeps and 1 motorcycle had registered with the last police post to drive up to Yume Samgong (or ‘Zero Point’ as it is usually called locally).

Above Yumtang in the Lachung valley members of the Sikkim Amateur Mountaineering Association and groups from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute have made a number of ascents. In the winter of 2004, the Lachung valley was also the scene of modern icefall climbing. Richard Durnan and friends from Colorado, Canada and Austria climbed many easy to access routes up to 180m long and up to WI5 and M5 in difficulty (see p384, 2004 AAJ, Vol 46). As Durnan says: “There is great potential for further development of ice climbing in this area.”

We first tried to visit North Sikkim in 2006 to attempt Gurudongmar (6715m), but we could not get all the necessary clearances. However, in the autumn of 2007, we got permission for Brumkhangshe (5635m), which is one of the two
Alpine Peaks in North Sikkim (the other being Lama Wangden 5868m in the Lachen valley).

With help from Sikkim Holidays in Gangtok and the Sikkim Amateur Mountaineering Association, we found the registration with police and army posts very straightforward, and the police and military personnel were very friendly and helpful. We situated our base camp by the road close to the police post at Shiv Mandir (marked at 3905m on the Swiss map of Sikkim
Himalaya). We arrived in low cloud and rain, and hence it appeared a rather miserable spot. However, as the weather improved and the peaks and nearby cliffs revealed themselves things improved.

The north ridge of Brumkhangshe turned out to be an easy and very good snow climb, which gave excellent views of many peaks of a similar altitude on both sides of the Lachen Valley. We explored the un-named glacier to the north of Brumkhangshe, which has a number of peaks around it (which are presumably unclimbed). We also took a close look at Chombu, but found the east face high in objective danger and the northern aspects under too much ‘interesting’ snow (the north ridge of Chombu could be a good route in the pre-monsoon season, and the west face offers an interesting challenge).
There are many peaks around the Rula Kang glacier under Chombu’s east face. Instructors from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute have apparently climbed Pheling c.5500m (easy snow climb), which is just south along the ridge from Chombu ‘East’ (5745m), which Doug Scott and team climbed in 1996 (crux of V with limited protection). Immediately east of Chombu’s northeast ridge is what we called ‘Eagle Peak’ (c.5540), which  has a very good mixed southwest ridge and from the summit awesome views of the peaks in the Kangchengyao group.

Into the light

The future for mountaineering and climbing in Sikkim looks very promising.The State Government has made it easier for foreign visitors to get access to some interesting peaks that are away from the borders. Meanwhile, the border areas are becoming less sensitive, and hopefully in the future tourism and mountain recreation can resume. The tourism service providers in the capitol Gangtok are very friendly and reliable, and are being supported by the Ministry of Tourism and the Sikkim Amateur Mountaineering Association (SAMA). Together, they are expanding their capacity to provide services to international tourists and mountain recreationists, and at the same time promoting sustainable development in mountain regions. Hence, climbers and mountaineers in Sikkim are developing their skills and knowledge, helping with local guide training, and giving opportunities to young people in Sikkim to enjoy climbing and mountaineering. With limited resources, SAMA has been doing an excellent job.

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Trekking Peaks in Sikkim
Recently the government has opened some of the peaks to promote mountain tourism in the state vide notification No.25/HOME/2006 dated 20/03/2006 issued by the Home Department, government of Sikkim, the following peaks have been open for mountaineering from the 17th September 2005.

SPECIAL RULES REGARDING EXPEDITIONS IN THE STATE OF SIKKIM

Any proposal for undertaking a mountaineering expedition in the Sikkim Himalaya must, in the first instance, be submitted to the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) at New Delhi, which is the apex body authorized by the Central Government to deal with all such cases. The application to the IMF must be made on the form as prescribed by IMF along with all the requisite supporting documents. The IMF will, thereafter, refer the proposal to the State Government and to the Ministry of Home Affairs and the Ministry of Defense in the Government of India.

Foreigners entering Sikkim are required to be in possession of Inner Line Permits besides valid passports and visas to inter Sikkim which is issued after the proposal is given clearance by the Ministry of Home Affairs, Government of India.
Most of the areas in Sikkim are close to the International Border and the clearance of the Ministry of Defence is also mandatory or else the military units may not permit access.

There are several peaks including Kangchenjunga which have been declared as “sacred” and the State Government does not permit scaling of such peaks to the final summit.

Procedure for application: The applicant is required to apply to the IMF at New Delhi in the prescribed format with the requisite supporting documents at least three months prior to the date of actual commencement of the expedition.

References to the State Government: Reference to the State Government will have to be made through the Indian Mountaineering Foundation and Proposals received directly will not be taken up for consideration. A centralized single window clearance system has been set up and all references to the State Government should be addressed to the Resident Commissioner of Sikkim, Sikkim House, 12 Panchheel Marg, Channakyapuri, New Delhi 110 021.

(a) Proposals referred to the State Government by the IMF will be examined by the Home Department, Government of Sikkim at Gantok and if approved, stage one clearance will be issued and intimation sent to the Ministry of Home Affairs and IMF and the Office of the Resident Commissioner of Sikkim at New Delhi.

(b) Once the proposal has been cleared by IMF, Ministry of Home Affairs and Ministry of Defense, the applicants are required to contact the office of the Resident Commissioner, Sikkim House, 12 Panchsheel Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi, final clearance, at this stage, the applicants will be required to pay the fees prescribed by the State Government of Sikkim and to sign an undertaking to the effect that they will abide by all the terms and conditions prescribed. On fulfillment of conditions laid down, the Resident Commissioner of Sikkim at New Delhi will issue the final clearance on behalf of the State Government.

(c) Fees levied by the Wildlife Wing of the State Forests Department for entry into Knagchenjunga National Park (KNP) and Wildlife Sanctuaries: (Mountaineering / trekking expeditions are required to pay fees as applicable if their routes fall within the parks and sanctuaries). Details are as follows:

Note: All mountaineering expeditions booked through registered travel agency located in Sikkim shall be eligible for a 20% rebate of the fees prescribed above. Expeditions sponsored by the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute at Gantok and the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute at Darjeeling shall also be given the same concession.

After obtaining the restricted area permit, bonafide foreign tourists, individuals as well as groups, can visit Gantok, Rumtek, Phodong and Pemayangtse for a period of fifteen days. For visiting Pemayangtse, Dzongri, Changu and Yumathang valley the rules are slightly tight. Organized foreign tourist group consisting of not less than four persons, sponsored by recognized Indian travel agencies will be issued permits up to fifteen days for trekking in the Dzongri area of West Sikkim. Permits for visiting Dzongri will be issued only by the representatives of the Sikkim Government in New Delhi.
The groups would be accompanied by a liaison officer provided by the Government of Sikkim. Similarly for visiting Changu lake and the Yumathang valley foreigners have to be in a group of four or more.
Areas other than those mentioned above can also be visited, for which a special permit, which is relatively difficult toget, has to be obtained from the Ministry of Home Affairs, Govt. of India, New Delhi.

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INTRODUCTION
This index covers the years 1929-2005, Book Reviews. Other indexes are A-K and L-Z for the bulk of the AAJ. These
compile all previous American Alpine Journal indexes. Included are three cumulative indexes: 1929-1976, 1977-1986,
1987-1996, and the individual volume years 1997-2005. This index is based on the work of the original indexers from the
original volumes; as such, inconsistencies exist throughout the years. The 1987-1996 index was used as the standard in
both format and content.
In all references the year is indicated in bold type, followed by page numbers.

CORRECTIONS
The comprehensive index contains errors and inconsistencies. We would like to improve this index as the years go by. Please send brief notes about errors you discover to aaj@americanalpineclub.org; fax: 303-384-0111; or by mail to AAJ Index, 710 Tenth St. Suite 140, Golden, CO 80401, USA. By email, write “index correction” in the subject line. Please follow these guidelines: 1. Identify error/inconsistency as shown in the Index; 2. Make your suggested correction; 3. Tell us why you believe that your version is more accurate than the published version; 4. Provide your name and contact information (land and email); 5. Accept our gratitude for your help in improving the index for the benefit of history and future climbers! Corrections are also welcome for any information published in the AAJ 1929-present; please use the same format for sending the corrections. Please do not telephone corrections. Thank you, John Harlin, Editor AAJ.

OBTAINING THE AAJ, 1929-PRESENT
Printed volumes of the AAJ are available on loan at many large public libraries and mountain clubs, and for purchase from
www.mountaineersbooks.org or www.chesslerbooks.com. The complete collection of AAJ 1929-present will be made
available on CD/DVD and on www.Climbing.com as pay-per-download. All Book Reviews sections are free.

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